Eco Indigo: A New Way to Dye Denim

A Different Approach to Indigo Dyeing

Denim has long been dyed with indigo, a color derived through chemical processes that often rely on fossil fuels and heavy industrial chemistry. Traditional indigo dyeing consumes large amounts of energy, water, and chemicals, and contributes to pollution in textile manufacturing. The development of Eco‑Indigo aims to reduce these impacts by replacing petroleum‑based colorants with a bio‑based alternative.

Eco‑Indigo was created by French biotech developer Pili and incorporated into denim production by Citizens of Humanity Group. It is one of the first bio‑based indigo dyes used at a commercial scale in denim collections, and it represents a major shift from conventional color production methods.

How Eco‑Indigo Is Made

Instead of using petroleum derivatives, Eco‑Indigo dye is produced through a hybrid process that combines industrial fermentation with sustainable chemistry. This process uses renewable plant‑based raw materials, such as sugars from agricultural by‑products, as feedstock. These materials are converted by selected microorganisms into bio‑based chemical intermediates
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After fermentation, the intermediates are extracted and processed using green chemistry methods, such as low-temperature reactions and water‑based solvents. The result is a high‑performance indigo dye that meets quality standards for textile use while avoiding many of the harmful chemicals found in traditional dyeing.

By removing reliance on fossil resources and toxic additives, Eco‑Indigo reduces carbon emissions and environmental burden associated with denim coloring.

Environmental and Industry Impact

The textile industry uses millions of tons of dyes each year, and most of those colors still come from fossil sources. Eco‑Indigo cuts that dependence by using biological feedstocks and fermentation techniques that resemble those used in food and pharmaceutical production.

Because it integrates into established dyeing processes, Eco‑Indigo does not require major changes to existing manufacturing equipment. This makes it easier for brands to adopt the dye without large investments in new machinery while still lowering emissions and reducing chemical waste.

In early applications, jeans dyed with Eco‑Indigo have shown green benefits such as reduced CO₂ emissions, fewer toxic inputs, and lower water usage compared with conventional indigo dyeing approaches.