Can a Shoe Be Designed to Disappear?

The fashion industry has long struggled with waste, and footwear is a major contributor. Most shoes are made from complex mixes of plastic, foam, rubber, and adhesives—materials that can take centuries to break down.

At OXMAN, a New York-based design studio led by architect and researcher Neri Oxman, that problem is being tackled from a radically different angle: designing shoes that are not just wearable but also compostable.

Their approach doesn’t start with trends or aesthetics. It starts with biology.

From Microbes to Materials

At the core of OXMAN’s footwear innovation is a biopolymer called polyhydroxyalkanoate (PHA)—a material produced by bacteria through natural fermentation. Unlike traditional plastics, PHAs are fully biodegradable and break down in natural environments without leaving behind microplastics.

This microbial material becomes the foundation for a mono-material shoe: a product made entirely from a single, organic compound. Simplicity is key. By avoiding layered synthetic components, adhesives, and foams, the shoe can return to the earth in its entirety after its useful life.

Fabricated for Decomposition

Designing with decomposition in mind flips the usual production model. OXMAN’s team uses advanced digital fabrication techniques—including 3D printing and robotic knitting—to produce seamless shoes that require no post-assembly or glue. Every aspect of the shoe’s form is calculated with its end-of-life in mind.

These aren’t concept pieces. The studio’s O° line (pronounced “zero degrees”) demonstrates that functional, comfortable footwear can be made entirely from materials that belong to nature’s own cycles.

Beyond Sustainability: Ecological Intelligence

OXMAN’s work on biodegradable shoes is part of a broader philosophy they call “Nature-centric design.” Rather than aiming for neutral environmental impact, the goal is regeneration—products that are aligned with, and even benefit from, the natural systems they enter.

The shoes are designed not only to disappear, but to do so safely, enriching the environments where they degrade. That’s a departure from the current fast-fashion model, where garments and footwear often become permanent pollutants.